Wednesday, June 13, 2012

I am home now, enjoying the cool weather, such a change from Senchi Ferry, Ghana. My three weeks in Ghana were wonderful and I would like to go back again someday.  Now that I am home, I find myself thinking about my time there.

So here is some of my reflections:
1. Water- everyday I had bottled water, as much as I needed. I couldn't drink their water as it would have made me sick. I even used water to brush my teeth. If I carried my water in my hand when I was walking, sometimes someone would ask for it. Or at the school, during break, maybe a student would ask me for it. I did give it away one day as I was leaving the school, but it didn't seem fair to all the others. In my walks through the village, I would see some common water source, like a pipe or pump. The pipe would be where nearby neighbors would come to carry water back to their house for cooking, or drinking or cleaning.


2. Food- These people eat a lot of cassava or taro root, beans, and rice. Not much meat, only occasionally. The goats that roam the village-and there were lots of them- are not milked but eaten after a certain age. I heard they had pigs but only saw a few. One day, on my walk to school, which I did every morning, I saw a man who had just butchered a pig. The only thing that was left was the head of the pig as he sold it all to his neighbors. He offered me the head! I said "no thanks". Later on my walk back from school, one woman offered me some pork that she had cooked that day which was nice but I couldn't take a chance on that either. Other food that seemed to be plentiful there are yams and mangos. Mango trees grow everywhere and I was there during that season. To pick the mangos, you generally use a long stick to know it off the stem, then try to catch it as it falls to the ground. I love mango and could eat it everyday so that was always like dessert for me and the other volunteers.


3. Weather- Everyday was hot, probably over 90 degrees. Luckily, we had A/C in the hotel that kept us cool at night for sleeping but during the day, there was no relief. My shirt and pants would be soaking wet after a few hours. Students would often ask me if I was cold sometimes. When I answered "no" , they didn't know whether to believe me or not because if the temperature dropped a few degrees below 90, they would wear long sleeve shirts and sweaters. haha! I was still hot and I was always looking for a breeze.. I will not be complaining about Oregon weather for a long time.

4. School - I was fortunate to work in three different schools while I was there. All were different yet the same in many ways. The first school, a private school, was the most crowded. Students there sat desk to desk with only one narrow aisle. This school rooms with thatched roofs but no walls. The teacher I worked with there was Daniel, who had been teaching for 7 years. I thought he was a very good math teacher who came to school on Saturday to teach those that need review or who ever showed up. He did this for free. His salary is only about $35 USD per month.  The other school had less students per class and more room structure, but very little lighting. So when it rained, the room was very dark, and the tin roof made it impossible to hear. The students in all three schools had to copy from the board the textbook, which the teacher had written during class. Generally, students had few textbooks. For the most part, they wrote everything in pen. If the teacher was not in the room, students monitored themselves with no apparent problems. There were break or recess times, and then the students would be free to leave the class. Many didn't eat breakfast and so they would buy food about 10:30 am from mothers who had set up food stalls outside under the trees. Some students might walk a great distance to find some favorite food.  One thing that is still used in the schools is "caning". Teachers can but not all do use a cane or switch to punish students for things like tardiness, or misbehavior in the class. I never saw it actually being done but others did see it.  One teacher told me he didn't do it to his students. Students do seem to have great respect for their teachers and behavior didn't seem to be a problem.



5. Machete- everyone had one or used one. Students often brought their machetes to school because another common school punishment was cutting the grass in the field with a machete. The lawn mower had broken at one school so entire classes were in the field hacking away on tall grass with their machetes. I never saw an accident or anyone use it in a threatening way. I saw some older students use it to chop wood. Another man used his for butchering the pig.


6. Walking or using the "tro-tro" is the most common way to get around. Tro-tro is a minivan that drives up and down the highway stopping for people standing on the side of the road.  These vans are well used, beat up looking heaps for the most part but still running. Drivers are interested in getting as many people in them as possible and driving as fast as possible. In the small towns, you could see vendors and tro-tro's everywhere. I saw lots of broken down cars, vans and trucks and some very serious accidents.

7. Everyone carries everything on their head. I saw propane tanks, sewing machines, and big water buckets, all being transported on their heads. Most of the time they use a small rag or cloth that sits on their head in a form of a circle. Then, the food or article is placed on top of the head and off they walk. I thought this must improve their posture as they all walk so straight. And they look very relaxed and comfortable doing it.


8. I don't know if all Ghana is the same but this was a very religious area. Every business sign was religious in some way. Like for sewing, a sign would say "God's working Hands". Or if you asked someone how they were , they would say "fine , by the grace of God".  In the school, there was worship for all every Wednesday for one hour and they often prayed in class, either with the teacher leading or a student.

I hope this gives you some idea of my appreciation and experience there. I met very few people who were not friendly and social. All the students were eager and friendly, almost thrilled to talk to me. I did feel somewhat cut off from the world because of no news or computer access. And at night, there was really nothing to do except read a book- one TV station with local Ghanian shows. But there is something about helping in this village that gives pleasure and satisfaction.


I may write more if I think of something else to tell you. I hope you can understand my thoughts. :)


Thursday, June 7, 2012

Only a few more days left in Ghana

June 7, 2012


Today began as normal with breakfast, conversation, and then off to our perspective schools. Ann and I walked to the Methodist Jr. Hi. Today started out with Worship so all the upper grades congregated into one large room. Part of the service was given by a minister who had some visual aids to help the students follow the bible story. After the homily, some selected students started beating the drums and others came to the front of the room to dance and proclaim their deep faith. It was also at this time, that the collection plate was brought out.

After worship, I worked with Mr. Theophilus in one math class and one social studies class. Tomorrow the students will have a test so they have to bring their own paper or pay the teacher for a copy. The teacher will type the test.

After lunch, I walked back to the library. As usual Fredrick and his buddy Joseph came. Also, Mohammed who I met on my walk the day before. Mohammed had asked me for money so he could eat. I didn't give him money but I did ask him to come to the library so I was happy to see him. It has to be so difficult to learn when you are hungry. I did ask Samuel, the librarian, about him and he told me this is true.

Pam, our leader, took photos of all of us reading to the students in the library. Students were more than thrilled to pose for these photos. When I walked in the community, if I have my camera out, primary children ask me to take their photos and they are totally satisfied when I show them the photo.

After the library, I walked over to the only copy place in the village to get some copies printed of a few photos. I will pick them up tomorrow. From there, I decided to walk the long way home, I only walked a short distance, when a young woman comes out of a house yelling my name. I was in her class today and she wanted to know if I would be there tomorrow. So tomorrow, I will have to look for Barbara. Next to her house, was a young boy working a rather old loom. He told me he was making "kente cloth". It looked beautiful. He is really the first one I saw with a loom in the community. Then down the road, outside a church, there was brass band practicing. I think there were 5 young men with trombones trying to create music. They were working with a teacher but it sounded like this might be there first lesson.

I continued walking down the road which has light traffic when I hear someone yelling my name. I look back and see a man far away. I can't really see his face but I then started towards him. He starts running towards me with his machete and black rubber boots. I try to walk faster saving him some steps. Then I recognize him; it is Mr. Seth the headmaster of the private school. He joins me on my walk because he is going to his farm to check on the crops. I wanted to see his farm, but he said I was not dressed properly as I had on short pants, so we parted ways. As I continued on, I saw two groups washing there "tro-tro's in unique ways. One tro-tro was parked on a slope, with all the doors wide open. The driver was splashing buckets of water inside the van. Another tro-tro group was collecting water from the large stagnant puddles near the road but washing the outside of the van. Neither had a faucet with a hose which would make this task easier.

Finally, as I neared the guest house, I saw several men working on making a wood coffin. He was using a plane to shape and smooth the lid of the coffin. Maybe it was a coffin that was going to be used soon.

Thought for the day : Winding down but still trying to maintain energy until the end.






- Posted while traveling the world

My weekend retreat

June 4, 2012

Friday morning began with our usual breakfast at 7 am. Today, Bless's six year old daughter was in the kitchen but was too shy to talk to "abalones" or white people. Pam did get manage to talk to her for a bit though in the kitchen.

Today we were leaving for Coconut Grove Resort in Elmina which is about 5 plus hours from St. James Guesthouse. We were going there for the weekend. Isaac and George were driving us in an air-conditioned van. The drive began by going towards Accra so we were seeing some of the same scenery that we saw before but it still intrigues us. In Accra , traffic stalled to a crawl and Isaac's van developed a problem. After stopping and having a mechanic do some minor adjustments we were off again but without A/C. There were many several toll booths that caused traffic to snarl and come to a grinding halt. At one place, some students almost kept up with us by running along side the van.
We did have a pit stop at a nice gas station where we could stretch our legs. At about 3 pm, we arrived at our resort.

The Coconut Grove Resort was a good place to relax and enjoy the ocean. It is a nice treat for two weeks of semi hibernation in Senchi Ferry. Saturday, we had a tour of the Cape Coast Castle by Mark. We learned a wealth of information about the Slave trade which was started by the Portuguese and the British. Walking into the dungeons where enslaved Africans were held for three months and then taken by ship to Brazil, Caribbean or North America was difficult to imagine even today. Hearing about how they were treated, like living without light the whole time, or the human waste or the branding , it was hard imagine that anyone could survive. I think I remember that out of the 5 million slaves, only 40 % survived which then were forced to live as slaves in another country. A very sad and horrible era of Western history.

In the afternoon, Ann and I went to Kakum National Park. We went on an hour and a half nature walk. The park contains lots of mammals, birds, and butterflies but we saw only a few things, yet it was a wonderful hike through a tropical rainforest. Our guide James did a good job of telling us all about the plant life in the park. Lots of hardwood trees many of which are protected. One part of the park has a canopy walkway which I didn't do because of my phobia of suspension bridges but I did look at it.

The drive back to the hotel took some time because of traffic even though the driver had the peddle to the metal whenever he could. The countryside shows me the poverty, the difficult of eking out a minimal existence. I see only basic small rectangular adobe or cinder block houses, some with a communal water pump or wells. Goats , chickens, and sometimes sheep all graze freely for any vegetation. Some people smile and greet you while others remain stoic. None can escape the oppressive heat but all tolerate it with little complaining.

We ate another nice dinner at the hotel. I had the chicken curry which was quite spicy, the way I like it. Also, I had a big bottle of Star beer. It tastes so good in this hot climate.

Sunday morning, after breakfast, I walked on the beach. I met one local young man who told me he had a full scholarship to a college in Kentucky and was leaving in August. He seemed eager to talk and learn about the U.S. As I continued on my walk, I could see many very poor shanties, with thatched roofs or plastic tarps for roofs. The contrast of the local village and the resort didn't escape me. The sand on the beach next to the village looked black , maybe oil soaked and open sewer pipes running from the lean-to's. Other places had huge wood boats used for fishing as I could see people working to untangle the fish nets.

By noon, we were on the road back to Senchi. Traffic wasn't to heavy so only a few congested spots. Isaac, the driver took every opportunity to speed even after Pam's continual warning of "Slow Down". I did see lots of signs warning of "overspeeding" and signs saying the number of people who had died at different spots on the road.

At about 4:30 pm we were back in our guest house. I decided to go for a long walk. I met several of my students along the way and other strangers too. Many are friendly and helpful. One man I met was the former Mayor, Samuel Opoku. He thanked me for coming to his community which was very nice. Another student asked for my phone number but I don't have a phone here. Another told me they were coming to the guesthouse to visit me tomorrow. I will see if he shows up.

One more week to go in Ghana. It has been great so far. I would love to come back again, see more and do more. Often, the local people ask me if I will come back. I feel very blessed in my life after being here.



Thought for the day : The darkest hour is only 60 minutes long. Light a candle and do not curse the darkness.


- Posted while traveling the world

Friday, June 1, 2012

Church in Senchi Ferry, Ghana

May 26, 2012

Sunday morning and everyone in the community seems to be going to church. Ghana , or at least this area, seems to be very religious. You can see signs for all kinds of different churches like Methodist, Pentecostal, and Catholic. This was probably an area for missionaries for many years, and maybe still now. The church buildings are not ornate or ostentatious, just a little better and larger than the homes I see in this area.

Daniel, my teacher who I had worked with this week, was going to the Catholic church and invited me to meet him there at 9 am. I had to walk around Saturday afternoon to find the church so I could walk there Sunday. Another volunteer from San Francisco was going with me too.

It was about a 15 minute walk from the guest house to the church. On the route to the church, I saw two brothers bathing outside their house, using a small tub of water. They don't have running water so they have to haul the water from somewhere. The older brother was soaping down the young brother, both seeming to enjoy the sun, soap and water. I think it was probably a Sunday ritual.

I looked for Daniel outside the church but didn't' see him. He told me he would be there early. We decided to go in and hopefully, Daniel would be there soon. Inside, was a very nice triangular shaped church with pews, an large crucifix and altar. People were sparsely populating the pews but later, most of the church was full.

Daniel arrived right near the beginning and sat next to me for moment. He apologized for being late and told me he was going to the front to play the drum. He was wearing a beautiful purple alb. He later told me had been playing the drum for Mass since we was 9 years old.

The service was interesting. There seem to be two main deacons or church leaders who led the service as no priest was available today. I guess they have to rotate to different parishes in this area. The one woman leader was very good. She spoke in English and the the local language giving the sermon or message to the congregation. This was one of the first Ghanian speakers whose English I could really understand. There was lots of singing and participation by the worshippers. The women were all dressed in very Ghanaian gowns and the men in nice western clothes. At the end of the service, the leader asked Lyn and I to come to the front and introduce ourselves, and say a little bit about ourselves. We did that and they seemed genuinely happy that we were there. The whole service lasted about two hours.

Daniel walked us back to the guesthouse. I offered to take him to lunch and he accepted. In this area, there is no restaurant that I can eat at safely-meaning without possibly getting sick. So we took the tro-tro to the Continental Hotel, which is a resort type hotel about 10 minutes from my guesthouse. Daniel had been there only once before. This hotel is either owned by an Indian family or managed by some Indian people. Their restaurant has an Indian cuisine and some local food too. The food there is ok to eat. So we had some rice, chicken and vegetables. As I paid the bill, I left a tip for the waitress. Daniel asked me about the tip. He didn't know about tipping before this. After I told him, we said we should wait until the waitress comes back because someone else might get the tip otherwise. Daniel knew these workers don't get pay very much so I thought it was very nice that he was looking out for someone else who he didn't know. It tells me a lot about his character.

It was a very nice relaxing Sunday in Senchi Ferry. Hot and dry but really appreciating everyday... Hope all is well. .




- Posted while traveling the world

Enjoying the local band

May 24, 2012

Things continue to be interesting and educational for me in Senchi Ferry.

Last Friday night, Pam and I decided to go to hear a local group play music near hear. We took the taxi. Before we got there, Pam wanted to buy chocolate which we were told as good and available in shop near the music gig. Getting out of the taxi, I could see the locals all selling their wares in a night market. Some of the sellers were just stand around with everything balanced on there head with amazing grace. This was also a place were the local "tro-tro's were stopping to acquire passengers or drop off riders. A tro-tro is a cheap transport for locals, a van that is constantly in motion on the main roads. You can just stand anywhere, flag down a tro-tro and tell them where you want to go, then pay them "cidi's- the local Ghanian money. It cost very little to ride the tro-tro and then don't try to cheat you. But you do have to hold your breath as some are safer than others , depending on the driver.

As I was snapping photos of the whole night market scene and Pam was buying chocolate bars, I hear someone yelling "Roger". I thought at first, it was a word that must sound like my name. Then, I thought who could know me here. After hearing it for the third time, I turned towards the sound. There sits a young man from Mr. Daniel's 7th grade class-David. I remembered him immediately and so I went up and talked to him for a bit. I was impressed that he remembered me.

In the meantime, Pam comes back with the chocolate bars that someone told her was going to be so good!! As we bite into them, the taste was far from divine.! haha! Kind of waxy taste, faded in color like it could be old. But it had to do in a pinch. Now we were headed for the open-air music concert.

The taxi driver pulled up next to the gas station. We walked around the back of the station where I saw about 5 musicians playing in one corner. There was a strobe light colorfully covering the dance floor. Beyond the dance floor, were tables and folding chairs for patrons like us. A large canopy covered the seating area. It was much better than we thought it was going to be.

Inside, we took a seat near the front of the dance floor. No one was dancing yet. A singer with a microphone was performing with the band but I could not understand a word, even though some of it was in English. The music as so loud I could barely have a conversation with Pam or Samuel who was with me. I gave Samuel some money to buy Malta or beer. I had read that lots of people like Malta, which is a sweet drink, which can be alcoholic or nonalcoholic. Samuel bought me a large quart bottle of beer and he drank the Malta. As we sat there, more people started to come and enjoy the music. They were all dressed sharply and into the music.

At first, no one was on the floor. Then gradually the men began to dance. Several were dancing with each other- not sure why the women were not dancing yet. One of the teachers I knew from the school was on the floor, and he asked me to dance with him. I gratefully obliged him, so then there were three of us guys dancing together. The only problem was the music went on and on and on! Finally, they decided we should sit down which I was grateful for.

Later, the women, not a lot of them, started to dance. One man was dancing with three women at once but they all seemed to be vying for his attention, and he was loving it. That was a show in itself. We stayed about two hours and then left. Back at my guesthouse, which was a least 10 minutes away by car, I could still here the music from the gas station. Haha! But it is quiet here and sound carries in the country I think.

Didn't great that night as I kept replaying the evening in my head and thinking about being here in this part of the world, so far from Portland.


- Posted while traveling the world

Location:Liver Pool Rd,Elmina,Ghana